
Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is the wrong stop for food & drink.
Worth the visit even if you buy nothing, and the room to find is the old Sala Verde / frescoed sacristy off the main hall — vaulted, frescoed, smelling of orris and rose, more chapel than shop. The product that anchors the place is the Acqua di Santa Maria Novella (Acqua della Regina), the citrus-bergamot cologne blended in 1533 for Catherine de' Medici to take to France — ask to smell it even if you don't buy. The catch is honest: it's fundamentally a high-end shop now, the products are expensive, and at peak it has a tour-funnel feel. Go on a weekday morning before the groups and it's a free, genuinely transporting 20 minutes.